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It was on eBay. It cost more than many others since it was made in the US, and it is a great fit. I'm just not convinced at this point that one of the less expensive options wouldn't be just as good - and likely easier to install (the one I got was a real bear - I can't imagine it needs to be THAT tight).

Thanks! I had a hard time working out all the details, and figured it would be good to share what I had to learn the hard way. ;-)

The GLK is an amazing vehicle to own and drive. I also happen to think it's the prettiest German SUV on the road as well. ;-)

Thanks - and, it's a 5-speed, so a real unicorn!

@@Mark_H_DIY awesome.... liked and subscribed

Thank you! I really do appreciate it!

AND should I go ahead and replace bank 2 sensor 2 as well? I'm reading things online that state I should replace both to avoid possible damage to he catalytic converter. Thoughts?

That's what I'd do in that situation. It could possibly be a wiring / connector problem, so it would be a good idea to at least take a look before swapping out the sensor. The post-catalytic converter sensors are relatively cheap.

There's no reason at all to swap both post-cat sensors. They're really very "inert" - all they do is sniff the output of the catalytic converters to see whether or not they're scrubbing the hydrocarbons out of the exhaust. They have zero impact on how the engine is operating, and don't cause any problems beyond the Check Engine Light being on, and your car failing emissions (if your state / locality require that).

Glad it helped

It's funny - my GLK didn't show this symptom for over a year, until a couple days ago. That was just a couple days after I ran the battery down while working on it in my garage. The symptom once again came, and then went without a trace, so it does make sense that it's voltage-related, at least this time (I believe from reading other reports that it could also be related to certain hardware failures as well).

Yeah, it's not going to win awards for production value! The angles I was working at under the car (and the lighting) were challenging, but at least the actual process to do the job came through pretty well I think.

Glad to hear it!

Sounds like you used what you had, and got it done! Congrats!

Now THAT is a loyal customer! I have to admit I really liked the quietness of those tires. I knew they really WERE different when I rolled one out of the back of my car (without a wheel - just a bare tire). Instead of the normal fairly healthy bounce, it just kind of hit the ground like a lump of putty. Very squishy, which made it very quiet. I can't say they last as long or handle as well as the Michelins I replaced them with, but I really did enjoy them!

Thanks for the kind words! Your approach to cars sounds like mine. I love buying "interesting European cars in need of some love" for peanuts, then working them over so they're going to be nearly trouble-free for many years. After 100,000 or so miles (160,000km for the metric-minded) I'll sell them, often for a profit. I'd still have the E61, which is to my mind the ultimate road trip car, but made the "mistake" of buying a 2011 Mercedes GLK 350 as a "project". Turns out the wife much preferred the SUV seating / turning radius / nimbleness and asked to keep in instead of the BMW. So I ended up selling the E61 about 75,000 miles "early", but the guy who bought it knows what he got, and got a really nice car at least.

Thanks! Hope it helps you out.

That's probably why I never mentioned the "TPMS light", huh? The low pressure warning (tire icon) is part of the TPMS system, and people are looking for how to "reset" that part of the TPMS system after airing up their tire.

@@Mark_H_DIY the title of your video is Tpms reset lol and many comments try to explain to you but u just argue u know it all bud

I dunno... when the TPMS system tells me that a TPMS sensor is reporting a low tire, and I refill the tire, and the TPMS system is still showing the low pressure tire symbol (and not the TPMS light that I never mentioned once) I suppose I might try to find a video to tell me how to reset that TPMS low tire pressure light. You may want to call it something else, but I suspect most people looking for info on how to do that will search for "TPMS Reset". I'll add "tire pressure light" to the title (if I can) if that will make it less confusing.

Everything you need is in the video comments.

Glad to hear it (and glad that you didn't have to tear the back of your car apart to fill the reservoir)!

Sadly, no. It's a very different engine, though with some similarities. Getting the oil separator cap swapped is apparently a whole lot more difficult. I've only read the horror stories though, which I hope are exaggerated... ;-)

I sense a story there ... ;-)

I sure hope so. At the very least, it'll let potential DIY'ers know what they're in for.

No problem

Thanks! I know it's a little long, but I wanted to cover everything we need to know for this job.

Thanks for the kind words. Glad it helped!

There are days I feel the same as well. Then there are days I remember how ridiculously complicated easy things were to do sometimes, and I feel a little better about having sold it. :-)

Yes, the hangers did the trick. My vibrations were really odd and hard to chase down, because they only happened occasionally. Also, if I was on a rough(ish) road, the vibrations never happened (I suppose the exhaust couldn't achieve the necessary resonance to start shaking like it does in the video). Making it more complicated (before the time of this video) there were a few other things that also contributed to some sort of drivetrain vibration, which were fixed one by one, each helping, but this final step was the really hard to diagnose one!

I've pretty much sworn off vehicles that have spent any time in the Frozen North anywhere. I did buy an inductive heater tool which is amazing when you have a frozen nut. I was going to do a video on that with one of my front axles, but it came out without a fight, which is a little disappointing. ;-)

Yes

@xjnoise Thank you for the reply, was confused why winparts sent me only front ones 🤦‍♂️

The bulb turns out just like the one you take out above it, to get to the angel eye bulb. There's nothing to film of that process other than the back of my hand... ;-)

If it fires up with starting fluid, you can forget about ignition problems. Your problem is the fuel pump, if you don't hear it hum when you turn the key on.

@@Mark_H_DIY appreciate it dude it sucks but at least it’s narrowed down to the issue. I’ve already switched relays and tested them so there’s power at the relay I gotta actually drop the tank and check the pump now I guess. Thanks!

@@thegrayjedi5202 yeah, once you verify that you have voltage going to the pump wires, there really isn't much left but to replace the pump. At least swapping a pump in an XJ isn't as bad as a lot of vehicles. I had a buddy with a diesel pickup, and he had to hoist the entire cab off the frame to get to the fuel pump.

I'm afraid you're right. LOL

Ouch! I remember looking at what it would take to do that, and had almost convinced myself it wouldn't be too bad. I hope it works out for you, and you get the new line in without too many obstacles.

Not really. It's a one use bolt that is designed to stretch a specific amount to set the preload on the friction plates on the rear output shaft. I really don't know the effect on the balance of the transfer case if you were to reuse it.

I have a c300 but I don't understand very well when you say about preloading the bearing seats.

Can you help me where to find the torque measurement to tighten the hexagonal bolt? For c300 2009 4 matic lux

Why in the second video did you use the hydraulic press? and in the first video no

@@emilioeduardogonzalezhuchi5178 in the first video, I wanted to show that you didn't need a hydraulic press to do the job. In the second video, I thought it would be helpful to show how to use the press to do it.

Looks like I'll probably be following up with a video on repairing those u-joints, too

The exact size of the drill bit and screw should be determined by the syringe you are using to fill the reservoir. You need to drill a hole big enough for the nose of the syringe, and then find a screw that is large enough to cap that hole. There are many combinations of drill bit and screw that will work just fine. Good luck with your job today, and hope it comes out perfect.

Thanks!

@@Mark_H_DIY This video was helpful because I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey. I did the driver CV axle and now I'm getting ready to do the passenger side.

@@RadientLight I know there are some differences between the 2001 and the 2010 Odyssey, but with Honda they tend to keep the basics the same across model years. Good luck with your axle swap, I'm sure it will go smoothly.

I honestly don't remember, and don't have the receipts where I can put my hands on them to find out. You don't really need a bulb with the rotatable base for the GLK though - on my daily driver GLK, I did, because one (aftermarket replacement) headlight had a clip that rotated over the base of the bulb. But yours should have the clip that moves vertically, so the fat fan housing won't get in the way anyway. That will open up a whole lot more options. I'd suggest doing a bit of research to find a set of LED bulbs that have great ratings, and that are designed to perfectly replace the original halogen bulb (by having the LED element at the same distance from the base as the halogen bulb). Good luck with your conversion!

I did a follow-up video that deals with the issue you are having. The problem is that sometimes the preload on the bearings is too high when you reassemble the transfer case, and this could cause premature bearing wear and failure. In the second video, I show you how to determine the proper preload, and how to adjust it. It might take longer, but the end result is that your new bearings should last a long, long time. ua-cam.com/video/JNt68kNdFUU/v-deo.html

thanks for the info ,I appreciate

I don't remember all the specs, but the wheels on the car (when this video was made) were from a newer (2015?) X5. I believe that the front spacers were 10mm and the rear 15mm, IIRC. Either way, the trick is to measure from the sidewall to the inner fender lip and then try to visualize how much you can move the sidewall out without interfering with the lip.

@@Mark_H_DIY oke thx for the info

;-) The hubs should be intimidated by that 10-ton puller, but they were more stubborn than scared!

All of the GLK models - and a host of other MB vehicles - use the 722.9 transmission. So the process should be essentially identical. I believe that the drain plug stand pipe varies from model to model, and there are internal differences between years, but the fluid change process should be the same. Of course, make sure you get the right fluid (see my comments on that in my video's description).

I don't see any reason you couldn't use the old standpipe as long as it wasn't damaged when you push it over during the draining process. But there's no way I'd reuse the filter - they're not at all expensive, and anything you can do to keep the fluid clean and fresh is the best thing you can do to keep the car on the road for hundreds of thousands of miles.

@@Mark_H_DIY Many thanks! GLK 350 is now at 282,000 Km.🙂👍

@@JohnSmith-ll9mr it's just a baby... With the right care, you'll easily go twice that.

I absolutely agree! The only reason my BMW was such a bear was because it spent its first few years in the frozen north. I'd forgotten how much fun rust (everywhere) is, and still take off virgin bolts under my 250,000 mile 1996 Jeep (AZ car its whole life) without a second's extra effort. I've pretty much sworn off any car that hasn't spent its whole life in the desert southwest now - call me a wimp, but every time I crawl under my new desert-only cars now, I pause and smile at the shiny, rust-free expanse above me!

The only things that pop to mind are that the bulb isn't bright enough, or that the bulb's design doesn't make with the fiber optic like it should. There are a lot of badly designed and under-bright bulbs out there. Mine were dirt cheap but much brighter than the original incandescent bulbs.

Check that bulb is seated properly/same as the bright side iv had it happen to me before

Good eye! I did notice that, but felt that although the lines were certainly tighter than normal, they weren't under any great stress. If you look closely, you can see that there is still a noticeable bow in the lines, indicating that they're not really supporting any weight or big stress. But your suggestion is spot on. It's always critically important to make sure that you don't put any real stress on those lines, as you are going to need them sometime. :-)

@@Mark_H_DIY yeah I'm sure your lines were fine. The only reason I noticed this on your video is because I did the same thing on my own E61 2008 535D last weekend while replacing the rear suspension bushes. But worse still, in my case the rear hoses are badly in need of replacement and have visible perishing of the rubber and feel like plastic. Fortunately I have a set of hoses which I had never gotten around to replacing so I'll probably do that next weekend. The suspension rebuild was a bit of a nightmare to be honest despite me having plenty of experience of DIY automotive engineering. I just didn't quite have the right tools to deal with the problems I was faced with, and so I had to do a lot of things the hard way. Also, the bushing puller/pusher kit that I bought for the lower wishbone inboard bushes just wasn't up to the job. It was just a threaded rod type kit and although pretty sturdy, it used weird nut sizes of around 1"1/16 or 26.7mm for the rod nuts also I was struggling to drive it properly. The thing is, my bushes were actually in pretty good condition so I ended up leaving them and will come back to them someday soon when I have a hydraulic press. That said, the balljoint replacement kit I bought for the integral joint balljoint actually worked pretty well but just couldn't quite seat the joint far enough to get the snap ring into place comfortably. I should have paid more attention to cleaning up the faces where it seats I think. The other thing I had trouble with was the upper "guide arm" which is the one which controls toe. This simple little arm had the bolt stuck inside the bore of the bush and although I could turn it fine, it would NOT come out no matter how much penetrating oil I used or how much effort I expended. I didn't have a reciprocating saw so in the end I had to make do with a Dewalt Multi-Tool with worn blades which were not suitable for cutting high tensile suspension bolts. That took a while but I got there in the end. A reciprocating saw is now high on my wish list! The other upper arm wasn't too bad to replace although access to the nut and bolt was tough to get it tightened back up. No chance of getting a torque wrench in there so had to do it with the double spanner method and just go by feel. I have just ordered a bunch of extra tools including offset ring spanners, deep impact sockets, needle nose vice grips, penetrating oil, extra 18mm and 16mm spanners plus a 24mm and 21mm spanner. I had a 22mm spanner but needed a 21mm. I did have a 21mm socket but that wasn't quite deep enough. I also had a 24mm socket but it also wasn't quite deep enough. I also need a larger torque wrench for the integral joint bolt but will make do with 200NM plus a bit extra rather than buying a 300NM wrench. So, next weekend I'll be tackling the other side but instead of starting at 12pm on Sunday, I'll be starting at 9am on Saturday and will be tackling the difficult bits first while the shops are still open for last minute purchasing of even MORE tools! :D

@@craigchamberlain there is a lot of great, real-world experience in what you just wrote, and I hope folks who find this video take the time to go through it. There's a big difference between the theoretically easy job, and the way it usually turns out. ;-)

The vendor has updated the listing, but I'll post it below. Please do keep in mind that I did have to do some extra steps / corrective work to make the camera fit in the factory "camera hole". But other than that, I was very pleased with the quality of the camera and accessories, and it continues to work very well (and I'm sure I've hit the camera with a pressure washer a few times). ;-) Link: www.ebay.com/itm/404044221364

I always make a video with the thought of putting everything in it I would want to know to do the job. ;-)

Glad to hear the video helped you out. When I read about the official way to do this job, my head exploded. ;-)

I couldn't agree more about using off-brand parts. But NTK is a known quality supplier for many Japanese and German cars, and I've used lots of their parts for decades without ever having a problem. The one I put in the Jeep has been working flawlessly since I did that video.

@@Mark_H_DIY I might just give it a shot I’ve been calling dealers in random states throughout the US and no luck I’ve been told to try a brand WVE who I was told previously made the mopar sensor for these jeeps but I couldn’t find anything to support this claim

@@Mobile-mechanicNM NTK is going to be head and shoulders above the parts store house brand parts. (IMHO)

It could be that the "new" lights have flaky insulation (a common problem) that caused a short when moving them around to remove / reinstall them. I'm not sure if BMW allows you to program the angel eyes off, but I wouldn't doubt it. You could try moving one of the "new" lights back to the "old" car to see if the angel eyes work there or not (if they do, you eliminate the bulbs and wiring). If the cars aren't the same year, it's always possible that there is a difference in the wiring configuration in the plug.

@@Mark_H_DIY Thank you for this valuable observation. Now I have confirmed why the Angel Eye lights did not work. The lights that I transferred from that vehicle are a BMW 525i to a BMW 530i. They are both the same model and the same lights, but the difference in the size of the vehicle affects

With lights, it's usually pretty simple to chase down the problem. It could be as simple as both angel eye light bulbs being burnt out - then it's just a matter of upgrading them to LED bulbs. Or it could be a wiring problem. Many of the 5-series E60 headlights have a problem due to the biodegradable insulation that BMW used - it can crack and fall off, which can cause a short circuit that will blow a fuse or cause bigger problems.

Glad it was helpful!